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Unlike some of its European counterparts, Dublin still remains a relatively compact city that can easily be negotiated on foot. Whether your interest be historical, literary or cultural, or if you simply want to relax, Dublin offers a range of interesting diversions in a stylish and increasingly cosmopolitan environment. Some would argue that the social life of Dubliners still revolves around the pub (see our Drinking & Dining guide), but if you're staying within the immediate city centre, you'll find plenty of alternatives to nursing a pint of Guinness right on your door-step. This guide offers a concise introduction to Dublins many attractions, and for ease of convenience is divided into the following sections: Literary Attractions, Museums and Galleries, Live Music, Sport and Children.
Literary Attractions Boasting no less than four Nobel Prize winners to date, Irish writers are famed the world over. The first stop on any literary related excursion to Dublin would have to be Trinity College. First established in 1592, the university is home to the famed medieval manuscript, the Book of Kells, and also has associations with Samuel Beckett, Bram Stoker, Edmund Burke and Oscar Wilde. The nearby Merrion Square, meanwhile, is also steeped in literary heritage. The former home of both Oscar Wilde and WB Yeats, the square boasts an impressive central garden and a beautifully camp memorial to Wilde himself. The spectacular St. Patricks Cathedral and adjacent Marshs Library are associated with satirist Jonathan Swift, while devotees of the playwright George Bernard Shaw can visit his birthplace, in a restored Victorian house, at 33 Synge Street. Dublins northside is also rich in its literary attractions. Still a focal point for much of Irelands new dramatic writing, the Abbey Theatre was originally founded in 1904 by W.B. Yeats and played host to plays by Sean O'Casey and JM Synges infamous Playboy of the Western World. More contemporary dramatists such as Brian Friel, Frank McGuinness and Marina Carr have all had premieres staged here, and the Abbeys sister theatre, the Peacock, continues to promote new writing. Theatre-buffs may also be interested in the Gate Theatre, which was first founded by Hilton Edwards and Edward MacLiammoir in 1928 and recently produced the celebrated Beckett Festival, which also played to packed houses in New York and London. For those less familiar with Dublins literary contributions, a visit to the Dublin Writers Museum may be in order. Located on Parnell Square, the museums collection includes an impressive array of photographs, paintings, first editions and memorabilia, all of which offer an excellent introduction to Irish writing in general. The popular Chapter One restaurant is located in the basement of the museum. Despite the plethora of writers and dramatists associated with the city, Dublin was undoubtedly best captured by its supreme chronicler James Joyce. Despite popular conjecture, Joyce wasn't, bizarrely enough, awarded a Nobel Prize, but his influence on both world literature and culture, has been, to say the very least, staggering. Ulysses still remains the novel by which most others are measured, and its labyrinthine structure name-checks countless city landmarks, the most immediately obvious of which is the Martello Tower in Sandymount. While the majority of Dubliners would probably admit to having not actually read the novel, the city celebrates its Joycean heritage on June 16th. Increasingly becoming a high-profile event, Bloomsday recreates the events that take place over the novels 24 time span, and plays host to festivities all over the capital. The James Joyce Centre on the elegantly restored North Great Georges Street organises the event, and remains a focal point of activity all year round.
Museums and Galleries Given the fact that Dublin is still a relatively small city, there is a impressively wide range of galleries and museums within walking distance of the city centre. For those interested in the history of Ireland, a visit to the National Museum is certainly advised. Based on two sites, the Museum houses artefacts which date from 7000 BC to the twentieth century. The original Kildare Street site was first opened in 1890, and features examples of Celtic and medieval art such as the famous Ardagh Chalice, Tara Brooch and the Derrynaflan Hoard. The museum also houses a fascinating exhibition dealing with the turbulent 1916-1921 period of Irish history, which led to independence. The impressive Collins Barracks site, meanwhile, is based in the oldest continuously occupied barracks in the world and is Irelands museum of the decorative arts and of economic, social, political and military history. Those seeking a more contemporary image of Ireland should check out the Gallery of Photography in Temple Bar. The Chester Beatty Library was reopened to the public at its new home in Dublin Castle in February 2000. Originally owned by the American engineer Sir Alfred Chester Beatty, the library houses a fine collection of Early Christian, Islamic and East Asian manuscripts, paintings, prints, icons and books. In addition to the permanent exhibitions a number of temporary exhibitions have also been planned, including an exhibition of the original manuscript of James Joyces Ulysses. Those conducting genealogical information should pay a visit to the National Library, which offers research facilities that are second to none. The Natural History Museum on Merrion Square was first opened in 1857. Particularly popular with children, the gallery has a Victorian, almost Gothic feel to it, and appears to have remained wholly unchanged since the nineteenth century. In an age of computer-aided exhibits and technology, it provides a marvellous glimpse at the mausoleum-museums of days gone by; and poking through its range of grotesque stuffed animals, bottled insects and bizarre flora and fauna is a surprisingly fascinating way to spend an afternoon. While not having the fine art legacy of other European cities, there are also several excellent galleries in Dublin where Irelands relatively little known artists can be appreciated. The National Gallery is an essential stop-off in an exploration of the history of Irish art. A recently developed Jack B. Yeats room displays the paintings, notebooks and other artefacts from this important and compulsively creative Irish family. A five minute walk from the National Gallery is the RHA Gallery on Ely Place. The RHA displays exhibitions from the more successful of living Irish artists, as well as significant retrospectives and the annual National College of Art and Design degree showcase. The development of the Temple Bar Gallery and Studios has been a prime example of the maturing of the Irish arts scene. In the 1980s and 90s, artists took over a dilapidated building in the then run-down Temple Bar area and set up studios and a gallery. With the design of the area as a cultural quarter, the gallery enjoyed a major refurbishment and is now more of the more important contemporary galleries in the city. The Taylor, Kavanagh, Green on Red and Hallward, Solomon and Kerlin galleries are all also worth a visit. Adjacent to the Garden of Remembrance, a stones throw away from historic O'Connell Street, the Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Modern Art is probably the most significant gallery on Dublins northside. The Hugh Lane houses an impressive permanent collection and a series of ongoing contemporary art exhibitions. The gallerys recent acquisition of Francis Bacons studio has been a heated talking point in Dublin art circles, and the preserved studio is expected to be on show this year. A short walk from the city centre, the Irish Museum of Modern Art is well worth a visit. Located in the stylishly refurbished Kilmainham hospital, IMMA always has something interesting on show, with ongoing exhibitions of both Irish and international art. The museum has hosted successful retrospectives of Andy Warhol and Joseph Bueys, amongst others, and the permanent collection of modern art is also essential viewing. A childrens response room and artists in residence add to the modern art experience in this fine eighteenth century building.
Live Music Dublins live music scene still remains as vibrant and as happening as ever, recently complemented by the opening of a number of purpose built gig venues like HQ, the Temple Bar Music Centre and Vicar Street. Sporting slickly designed interiors and accompanying night-clubs, these venues draw a variety of established Irish and international acts, the more popular of which generally play at larger capacity venues like the Olympia Theatre or the Point Depot, the latter of which is less of a bar and more of a warehouse. For atmosphere, quality and character, however, Dublins smaller pub venues are still where its at. Whelans on Wexford Street is probably the best venue in the city: with great acoustics, a friendly and loyal crowd and a spectacular balcony view of its tiny but perfectly adequate stage. Whelans is a great place to catch up-and coming Dublin bands and emerging international acts, usually of a rock, folk or alternative variety, and the cover charge is always reasonable, too. If traditional Irish music is your thing, you're not exactly spoilt for choice. Some of Dublins more authentic pubs like the Cobblestone, the Harcourt Hotel, O'Sheas and O'Donoghues feature trad sessions, but the quality varies considerably from night to night. Nealons, Renards, Slatterys and Smyths are popular haunts for fans of jazz and blues.
Sport Sport is hugely popular in Ireland, and for many is a matter of national pride. The Gaelic Athletic Association, which was founded 1884, drew up rules and regulations for native, indigenous sports, and was just as much a political movement as a recreational one. Members of the GAA even were banned from playing English sports. In recent years, however, Gaelic games like football, hurling and camogie have arguably been superseded in popularity by international and British soccer tournaments, not least because of the Republic of Irelands qualification for the World Cup in 1990 and 1994. GAA games during the championship season, however, still draw huge crowds at Croke Park in Dublin. This northside stadium, presently in the throes of redevelopment, has a capacity of 66,000 and tickets for GAA All-Ireland finals are always hard to come by. Soccer is also played at a semi-professional level in Ireland. Dublins main representatives in the national league are Shamrock Rovers, Shelbourne FC, Bohemians and UCD, all of which have home grounds in the capital city. A visit to Dalymount Park in Phibsboro will capture the excitement of the local teams in action. Ireland is famed around the world for its quality of horse breeding, and racing remains as popular as ever in Dublin. Leopardstown has race days all year, while The Curragh and Punchestown (both in Co. Kildare) are also popular venues, the latter of which is the home of the National Hunt. National Hunt racing begins on St Stephens Day (Boxing Day) and runs for four days over the Christmas period. Other important festivals include the AIG Europe Hurdle and the Ladbrokes Hurdle in January and the Hennessy Gold Cup in February. Greyhound racing has also become increasingly popular in recent years, and Shelbourne Park has race meetings several times a week. Golf is also extremely popular in Ireland and Dublin boasts some 55 different links, most of which are located in suburban areas, including the internationally renowned Portmarnock Golf Course, which has hosted many major championships including the Irish Open. Many of these clubs are privately owned, however, and require membership of a golf union. A number of smaller clubs such as Hollystown, Stepaside, Elm Green and the Swords Open Golf Club, operate a green fees policy and are within easy reach of the city centre. More information, including a list of private courses, can be obtained from the Golfing Union of Ireland. The Murphys Irish Open is one of the highlights of the professional golf calendar and is held every July. Other marvellous courses are located within a hours drive of the city, including the magnificent K Club and Mount Juliet. Ireland boasts some of the finest fishing locations in the world, although Dublin is not exactly spoilt for choice. Coarse fishing options can be found along the river Liffey, the Royal Canal, the Dodder and the Grand Canal, while Dublins coastline offers excellent sea fishing opportunities. Dun Laoghaire, Howth, Skerries, Dalkey and Killiney beach are all good locations. Permits can be obtained from most fishing tackle shops or from the Eastern Regional Fisheries Board. A state licence is required for river fishing for salmon or sea trout from the Fishery Board. Sea, rock, beach or canal fishing does not require a permit, however. Children Although not always apparent from a first glance, Dublin offers a wealth of attractions for both the young and young at heart. The Dublin Viking Adventure, Dublinia, Dublin Zoo and the National Wax Museum are all popular haunts, making for an enjoyable and often educational afternoon. The more discerning child may find the above distractions just a little too twee, however: budding pop stars will love HQs newly established Hot Press Irish Music Hall of Fame, an interactive history of Irish rock music featuring multimedia presentations and even a karaoke video facility. The long-established Lambert Puppet Theatre remains a favourite with pre-teens, while The Ark in Temple Bar is Irelands only cultural centre for children, regularly hosting exhibitions, theatre performances and workshops. Cinemas, of course, remain always reliable, particularly on rainy days. If none of the current offerings on show take their fancy, why not check out the IMAX theatre on Parnell Street, which boasts the largest screen in Ireland and is, by all accounts, quite a dazzling experience. |
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